Backpacking the Balkans: Around Bulgaria

(I've updated with photos, new text is in italicized parenthesis.)

Since I last blogged I changed plans quite a few times. I'm again too lazy to add pictures on a crappy computer and connection, but here's what I've been up to:

(General Sofia photos, including the interior of the largest Sephardic synagogue in the Balkans. Note the Viennese architecture around the city, and the huge Orthodox church. I also enjoyed the statues everywhere:)

I ended up staying in Sofia for a total of three nights, which worked out to 2 days and a 3rd morning sleeping in. On Saturday I went with a group of people from the hostel to find Vitosha, a mountain near Sofia, by public transportation. I normally travel alone because I like to figure out where I'm going, go at my own pace, and not either be blamed for getting lost or be angry at someone else for getting lost and wish I'd done it myself. Anyway, I was in this case following people and we couldn't find the mountain, but oh well: it resulted in much adventure. First, we got on a tram to go back to the hostel. The ticket machine wasn't working and 3 of us got taken off the train by a ticket checker whose 2 large friends surrounded us. They kept demanding "documents" (passports) which we were wise enough not to give them - once they have your passport, which they shouldn't legally ask for, they keep it for a huge bribe. We got away with 10 lev each for the 2 of us who didn't have a ticket, no receipts of course, and a lot of hassle but no bribe for the guy who'd bought a ticket at a tabacco shop beforehand but who (according to the unreliable ticket checker) had stamped the wrong side. It was a bit of an adrenaline rush.

To build on that, we then went to a shooting gallery. Including the taxi there and back, I paid 10 lev (5 euro) to shoot 20 bullets from a .22 and 5 from a semi-automatic Uzi. I was skeptical at first and thought I'd go to the gallery but might not shoot, but it was very cheap and turned out to be quite fun. I'd certainly do it again and try to improve my aim (which I'd like to think wasn't bad; I got one Uzi shot right through the bulls eye) but I'd never dream of hunting.

Saturday night I was out until 4:30am clubbing. The hostel itself also was an adventure, as although Hostel Mostel is very nice and has lots of amenities, it was crowded and I slept in 3 different beds during my 3 nights there, the worst one after clubbing all night.

(One of the clubs had a fantastic sign, and by fantastic I mean head-scratchingly hilarious:)

Sunday I headed to Plovdiv, where I'd arranged to couchsurf with a guy living there who was working until 11pm. I killed time with my heavy backpack by reading in the town square, where I met a really wonderful Austrian couple, 23 years old and on their honeymoon (though they didn't tell me that part!), who invited me to leave my bag in their room while I explored town and to go with them to Kazunlak the next day and Veliko Tarnovo today. Plovdiv was a scenic town; I'll post pictures at some point. I also had delicious Bulgarian food courtesy of the guy I was couchsurfing.

(Edit with photos: I especially liked the statues and other public art in Plovdiv, but the ruins were also neat:)

Before we left Plovdiv Monday we met with a man who worked for a Bulgarian aid organization in the city. Although the meeting took place mostly in German, the bits I understood were really interesting and I've got some CDs and cards from the organization to look over later. We headed to Kazunlak where there was a neat archeaological and Bulgarian art museum and a research institute on roses. There was also a really nice hotel with a pool.

(Kazunlak's square:)

Today we headed out and stopped at a great big monument to the battle that resulted in "Bulgaria appearing on the map of Europe" in 1878. It was impressive and had impressive views, pictures later. We then stopped at a monastary and its nearby cave, which was quite nice because it felt like it was air conditioned. And then I wandered around Veliko, seeing the castle both by day and just now at night with a light show, and the buildings built into the hillside.

(View of Bulgaria from atop the monument:)